Kashi, now known as Varanasi (Benaras), is the oldest living city in the world. Nobody exactly knows when it was founded. The city is an amazing mix of houses, bazaars, vegetables & flowers markets, temples, ashrams and community houses, compactly located on winding labyrinths finally opening up somewhere at the ghats of Ganges.  Bustling with humanity, cycles, scooters, rickshaws and domesticated animals (cows, dogs, camels... you name it!),  the narrow lanes are somewhat unnerving, but always interesting, for the visitor.

               This is true for nearly all the old cities in India - where community life is extremely interwoven and general commuting is on foot; hence the compact settlements. Cities/Towns were rarely planned, and seem to have just sprung up around rivers, lakes, temples or forts. Apart from Varanasi, the temple town of Madurai and the fort town of Jaisalmer are fine examples.  

              Of course, there are exceptions like Jaipur (internationally recognized as a masterpiece of town planning), Fatehpur Sikri and Vijaynagar/Hampi. Calcutta, New Delhi and other cities built during the Colonial rule were well-planned and widely spread out, but failed to cater to the needs of Indian social system.India's architecturally impressive structures can be broadly divided into four groups:

            They were the places of Buddhist worship, learning and preaching. Among the earliest surviving manmade structures made in India, they suggest that architecture was in its evolutionary phase - The structures were small and elegant. Yet artistry is clearly visible in superb carvings of toranas (gateways), pillars and railings. 

              The stupa at Sanchi is the most intact. So are other Buddhist structures at Sarnath, Kushinagar, Rajgir, Amravati and Bodhgaya. Chiseled out of the mountains, the 2 BC Ajanta Caves (a World Heritage Site) have superb murals. The monasteries at Leh, Rumtek, Ghoom and Tawang in the Himalayas are the still-in-use pieces of architecture. 

              Temples were not just places of worship; they also served (and to a large extent, still do)  as social centers, where ceremonies from weddings to dances to communal feasts took place, and were the only outlets for artists and sculptors to express their creativity. Due to the unwritten nature of Indian history, much of the past was garnered by studying the sculptures and painting in temples, which depicted the lifestyle of that era. For instance,  the erotic sculptures of temples of Khajuraho and Halebid illustrate the liberal attitude of the society then.

                   One very notable feature of Indian temples is that howsoever big they may be,  they always give an impression of fineness, intimacy and liveliness - even when there is no crowd around. Every space is filled with fine details. The emphasis is always over the face of the idol which is always expressive. The main idol at Elephanta caves is one very fine example.

                Temples in India can be very interesting. Some are open only for a few hours a day, others round-the-clock. Some maybe be the center of the city, others far removed from human settlement and at most unusual locations. A temple at Gangasagar comes out of Ganges only once a year on January 14! 

             The Mughal invaders brought with them a completely different building concept - of majestic structures with extreme formality and symmetry in design and layout. Biggest, highest and most imposing used to be the criterion. Carving figures was forbidden; so trellis, domes and minarets came in. Persian designs and formats were used extensively. While the Taj Mahal needs no introduction, other mausoleums and mosques are no less. The cenotaphs (chhatries) built by Hindus were also inspired from tombs -  though they were less formal, but more ornamental. 

            A sense of insecurity during the medieval period led to construction of massive forts.  The Mughal technique of fort construction was perfected by the Rajput rulers of Rajasthan who built awe-inspiring, yet highly interesting, strategically located forts. Innovative techniques, best evident in Hyderabad's Golconda fort, to counter enemy offensive were incorporated in the forts. 

               Huge, yet private, Indian palaces are extremely ornamental and theme-oriented with sheesh(mirror) mahals, badal(cloud) mahals, chitra(paintings) mahals and so on. The Islamic influence added concepts like Diwan-e-aam, Diwan-e-khas, well laid out gardens and separate chambers for women known as zenana. Palace construction extended over several generations, with each king adding his own personal stamp. The intricate palaces of Rajasthan are rightly considered the epitome in luxury.

                If Buddhist structures are serene, Hindu ones lively, Islamic ones majestic,  then the colonial ones are simply grand. Columns, vistas, colonnades, corridors, high ceilings, vast halls and sweeping staircases were important features. Extremely well-planned, the designs were driven by geometric rules. 

                Colonial layout was not restricted to buildings alone - entire cities were designed so. Interestingly, Edward Lutyen's design of New Delhi incorporated several Hindu and Muslim features such as kiosks, gardens and canopies. New Delhi, Shimla, Pondicherry, Calcutta and a whole number of hill resorts still evoke the nostalgia of The Raj... of magnificent structures, huge bungalows, clubs & parties, proud sahibs and, of course, scandalous mem-sahibs.